Introducing Vacheron Constantin Unveils the Armillary Tourbillon Myth of the Pleiades

Vacheron Constantin celebrates its 270th anniversary and its enduring quest for excellence with a new series of Les Cabinotiers watches entitled La Quête, paying tribute to astronomy and the odysseys of ancient times. Representing significant technical and aesthetic challenges, these creations highlight the Maison’s expertise in crafting grand complication watches enriched by artistic craftsmanship.

The Les Cabinotiers Armillary Tourbillon Myth of the Pleiades watch draws inspiration from the “Seven Sisters” of Greek mythology, the daughters of the Titan Atlas and the sea nymph Pleione, who were transformed into stars within the constellation of Taurus and served as a vital navigation point for ancient sailors. This celestial story is beautifully depicted through intricate hand-engraving on the case sides. The watch is powered by Calibre 1990, a manufacture movement protected by four patents and featuring a bi-axial tourbillon and bi-retrograde time indications, an exceptional demonstration of both technical mastery and artistic refinement.

Four patents mark the technical innovations of Calibre 1990. The instantaneous retrograde system, controlled solely by the minute cam, synchronises the jump of both hands precisely at midnight and midday. The escape wheel collet is made of titanium to ensure optimal isochronism, as its lightweight properties perfectly complement the materials used in the regulating organ. The tourbillon architecture features twin cages that form a Maltese cross pattern every 15 seconds, symbolising Vacheron Constantin’s iconic emblem. The titanium lever with diamond-coated pallets offers superior wear resistance and an optimised coefficient of friction.

The design and engraving draw inspiration from the work of Johannes Hevelius (1611–1687), the Polish astronomer who mapped the Moon, discovered numerous comets, and compiled one of the first comprehensive star atlases linking constellations to mythological figures. On the crown side, a cloudy sky reveals Orion, sword and shield in hand, ready to battle for the Pleiades — the stars protected by the bull sent by Zeus. On the opposite side, the ship Argos, described as an ancient constellation by Ptolemy (circa 100–168 AD), sails across a sea filled with mythical creatures — chimeras, dolphins, and sea monsters — guided by the Pleiades in the constellation Taurus.

To bring these scenes to life on the 20 mm-high case, the engraver first outlines each element using drypoint, a meticulous process given the wealth of detail. The volumes are then shaped with a burin, carefully removing material without exceeding a depth of one millimetre. The micro-sculpting stage gives the final relief and texture. Working closely with the gem-setter, the engraver determines the placement of ten brilliant-cut diamonds representing the Pleiades — six on the crown side and four on the opposite side — each positioned at the correct height to depict the visible stars. The diamonds, measuring 0.6 and 0.9 mm, are bezel-set and integrated into the composition. Once the gem-setting is complete, the engraver finalises the celestial background using a mix of polished and chased finishes to enhance contrast. The bezel, lugs, and caseback feature wave-shaped champlevé engraving in the Hellenic style. In total, the engraver devoted 450 hours to completing this extraordinary work.

The dial layout, with bi-retrograde time indications on the right, leaves the left side entirely open for the armillary tourbillon, whose mechanical ballet unfolds beneath a sapphire-crystal dome at 9 o’clock. The term “armillary” refers to the 18th-century watchmaker Antide Janvier, who created a moving sphere to illustrate the apparent motion of the stars. Visually, the tourbillon evokes the graduated rings of the armillary spheres used in pre-telescopic astronomy to chart the heavens. Serving also as a small-seconds display, the regulator comprises two aluminium cages nested within each other, rotating on two axes once per minute, forming a mesmerising sphere in perpetual motion.

The Myth of the Pleiades watch is powered by the hand-wound Calibre 1990, derived from the technical advances of the legendary Reference 57260. It displays bi-retrograde hours and minutes, with instantaneous hand return at noon and midnight. The tourbillon incorporates a spherical balance spring, a rare feature in contemporary watchmaking, first conceived by Jacques-Frédéric Houriet in 1814. Exceptionally difficult to produce, it demands micron-level precision — an expertise mastered by only a few artisans. This hairspring ensures a perfectly concentric beat, improving isochronism and precision.

The escapement, oscillating at 18,000 vibrations per hour (2.5 Hz), features a titanium anchor with diamond pallets, reducing friction and eliminating the need for lubrication. The use of high-tech materials and weight reduction enhances chronometric performance, meeting COSC standards. This achievement is even more remarkable given the torque demands of the instantaneous bi-retrograde mechanism across the 60-hour power reserve.

The technical sophistication of the movement is matched by the beauty of its finish. On the front, the openworked dial reveals bevelled and polished components. The main plate, crafted from nickel silver with a two-tone surface treatment, displays a circular satin finish. The bridges and dial share the same metal, accentuating the visibility of the blue minute track, while blued screws and retrograde hands add depth to the composition. Through the sapphire caseback, the hand-bevelled bridges adorned with horizontal Côtes de Genève can be admired, their polished edges contrasting with the blued screws.

This unique piece is paired with a dark blue Mississippiensis alligator leather strap with matching alligator lining, hand-stitched, and secured by a hand-engraved 4N pink-gold folding clasp (750/1000). Its price is available upon request.

For more information, visit Vacheron Constantin official website.