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A combination of American heritage with Swiss craftsmanship, powered by the El Primero Caliber
Since taking over Tiffany & Co. in 2020, LVMH has gradually revitalized the American brand. The reboot of its watchmaking division has progressed more slowly, initially focusing on jewelled ladies’ watches. Now, Tiffany & Co. has finally turned to men’s watches with the Tiffany Timer, a chronograph powered by the Zenith El Primero 400 movement. As we have seen in previous editions of LVMH Watch Week, Tiffany traditionally unveiled jewelled ladies’ watches. For the seventh edition of the event in Milan, the company introduces its first chronograph for men.
The Tiffany Timer is an exclusive homage to one of America’s first stopwatches made by the jeweler. The new chronograph blends Swiss watchmaking with Tiffany & Co.’s expertise in design and craftsmanship. Its dial, lacquered in Tiffany’s signature blue, makes the watch instantly recognizable. On the case back, the movement features a hand-engraved, solid-gold “Bird on a Rock” motif on the rotor.
Sized similarly to other El Primero-powered chronographs, the polished platinum case measures 40 mm in diameter. The faceted crown, inspired by Tiffany’s iconic six-prong setting, is a refined detail, crafted in white gold along with the pushers. The case back bears the engraving “Limited Edition of 60,” emphasizing the watch’s exclusivity, and offers 100 m water resistance.
The Tiffany Blue lacquer dial is accentuated with baguette-cut diamond indexes and white gold hands. Crafting it requires more than 50 hours of meticulous work. Using a small tool, the dial base is sprayed eight times with matte Tiffany Blue lacquer, then baked for two hours at precisely the right temperature. It receives 15 layers of clearcoat, each dried under controlled conditions, followed by a final 12-hour baking process to complete the production phase.
The dial displays a three-register chronograph layout, ensuring clear legibility: chronograph seconds on the outer track, elapsed minutes at 3 o’clock, elapsed hours and the date at 6 o’clock, and running seconds at 9 o’clock. Dark gray markings provide strong contrast against the light-colored dial, while the 12 baguette-cut diamond indexes remain the centerpiece.
Powering the watch is a bespoke version of Zenith’s El Primero 400, an integrated automatic chronograph movement with column wheel. The customized caliber is visible through the sapphire case back. The immediate attention grabber is the open-worked rotor adorned with a miniature Bird on a Rock motif, hand-sculpted from 18K yellow gold, faithful to Jean Schlumberger’s original 1965 brooch design. It is polished by hand using diamond powders and gentian wood sticks.
The rest of the movement features a muted finish with frosting and graining. As a high-beat movement, it operates at 36,000 vph (5 Hz) and offers a 50-hour power reserve.
The watch pairs with a brown alligator strap secured by a butterfly clasp in 18K white gold. The Tiffany Timer is limited to 60 pieces, priced at $55,000 USD, equivalent to approximately 202,000 AED.
For more information, visit Tiffany & Co. official website.
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