Introducing The New Universal Genève Tribute to Compax

Universal Genève was founded in 1894 and played a pivotal role in the golden era of chronographs, producing some of the most elegant and technically refined timepieces of the mid-twentieth century. After years of silence, the brand is now preparing for a full revival in 2026. But before that moment arrives, it offers a tantalizing glimpse of what’s to come with the new Tribute to Compax.

This release pays homage to one of the most recognizable chronographs in Universal Genève’s history, famously worn by Finnish model Nina Rindt, wife of Formula 1 legend Jochen Rindt. Her personal flair transformed the watch into a symbol of style and individuality. Worn on a bold Bund strap she discovered in a Paris boutique, Nina’s Compax evolved from a racing instrument into a fashion statement that transcended its era.

This year, Universal Genève honors that legacy through two exclusive sets of three chronographs. Produced as one-off creations, these watches serve as a meaningful prelude to the brand’s rebirth and contribute to the future of Swiss watchmaking, with proceeds benefiting the Geneva Watchmaking School.

Each watch is housed in a 36 mm case measuring 12.67 mm in thickness and 44.44 mm lug-to-lug. Crafted in 18K white or red gold, the case faithfully recreates the twisted lyre lugs and pump pushers of the original 1960s design. A fixed aluminum bezel with a tachymeter scale enhances the vintage aesthetic, while a double anti-reflective sapphire crystal protects the dial. Water resistance is rated at 50 meters.

Universal Genève elevates the release with Grand Feu enamel dials, a technique rarely seen in chronographs. Each dial undergoes multiple firings at over 800°C, resulting in a luminous depth and exceptional durability. The collection spans four dial colors, white, black, brown, and blue, each paired with contrasting enamel subdials that evoke the legendary “panda” and “reverse panda” designs. The hands are rhodium- or red-gold-plated, depending on the case metal, while the chronograph seconds hand is painted in red, a direct nod to Nina Rindt’s watch. The dial displays hours, minutes, small seconds, and chronograph functions with 30-minute and 12-hour counters, and features Super-LumiNova on the printed indices for optimal readability.

At the heart of each watch beats the Universal Genève Caliber 281, a hand-wound chronograph movement sourced from six original calibers found in the brand’s archives. Each has been fully restored and refined for this project. Measuring 28.5 mm in diameter and 7.1 mm in thickness, the movement operates at 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz) and delivers a 36-hour power reserve.

In keeping with Nina Rindt’s influence, the watches are paired with bespoke Bund straps handcrafted by Satoru Hosoi, a master leather artisan trained in Japan, Italy, and France. From his Paris atelier, Hosoi reimagined the Bund with a couture sensibility, crafting each strap from three interlocking pieces of calfskin stitched together into a seamless, non-detachable construction. Each strap is secured by an 18K gold pin buckle matching the case.

Only two unique sets of three watches exist, available exclusively on request through Universal Genève. They are not sold separately. Each set is priced at CHF 135,000 (approximately AED 614,500).

For more information, visit Universal Genève’s official website.