Hands on The Excalibur Bi-Retrograde Calendar by Roger Dubuis

This year, Roger Dubuis celebrates its 30th anniversary, and for the occasion, the company pays tribute to its co-founder’s favourite complication: the bi-retrograde display. 

This function, previously featured in the Excalibur Grande Complication alongside a dozen other highly complex mechanisms, takes centre stage once again. The Maison has also introduced a less complicated, more classic edition to further honour the bi-retrograde display.

Also referred to as “the ecliptic counters” by the Maison a nod to their elliptical shape and distinctive role in indicating the months and date the design showcases a symmetrical dial layout. Enhanced by refined detailing, it pays homage to the Maison’s early creations from 1996.

The case is crafted from 18K pink gold, measuring 40 mm in diameter and 11.25 mm in thickness, offering a balanced and wearable size. This elegant timepiece provides water resistance up to 100 metres. The open sapphire crystal caseback reveals the intricately finished movement, while the slimmer profile reflects Roger Dubuis’ early preference for refined proportions in gentlemen’s watches.

The dial of the Excalibur Bi-Retrograde Calendar showcases its signature bi-retrograde display at 3 and 9 o’clock, a hallmark of Roger Dubuis’ design language. 

This complication employs a system of cams, Rack, clicks, and springs to return the hands to zero at the end of their cycle. The silver-plated dial features a satin-brushed finish with pink gold accents, while mother-of-pearl inserts at 12 and 6 o’clock add visual depth. Gold-plated hour indices with white luminescent material ensure optimal legibility. The hour and minute hands are crafted from pink gold with satin-brushed surfaces and luminescent centres, while the retrograde hands, made of lightweight brass coated in pink gold, enhance precision and functionality.

Beneath the sapphire crystal, the first component of this automatic movement that catches the eye is the redesigned oscillating weight, inspired by Roger Dubuis’ early creations.

The watch is powered by the RD840 calibre, which features day and date functions displayed via the bi-retrograde mechanism. Operating at a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour), the movement offers a power reserve of 60 hours. With a thickness of just 4.17 mm, it is composed of 240 components. The calibre boasts 14 distinct finishes, including polished and matte surfaces, all crafted to meet the exacting standards of the Poinçon de Genève certification.

The timepiece is paired with a calf leather strap, equipped with Roger Dubuis’ Quick Release System (QRS) for effortless interchangeability. The strap is secured by a triple folding clasp in pink gold, also featuring the convenient QRS mechanism.

For more information, please visit Roger Dubuis official website.