The Excalibur Bi-Retrograde Calendar by Roger Dubuis

This year, Roger Dubuis celebrates its 30th anniversary, and for the occasion, the company pays tribute to its co-founder’s favourite complication: the bi-retrograde display.

This function, previously featured in the Excalibur Grande Complication alongside a dozen other highly complex mechanisms, takes centre stage once again. The Maison has also introduced a less complicated, more classic edition to further honour the bi-retrograde display.

Also referred to as “the ecliptic counters” by the Maison a nod to their elliptical shape and distinctive role in indicating the months and date the design showcases a symmetrical dial layout. Enhanced by refined detailing, it pays homage to the Maison’s early creations from 1996.

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First Look Patek Philippe Releases the New Calatrava Pilot Travel Time 5524G-010

Revisiting the skies with a fresh ivory dial

ByWaqt

2 weeks ago

3 minutes read

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First launched in 2015, the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time drew inspiration from Patek Philippe’s aviator timepieces from the Museum. The collection successfully fused classic pilot watch elements with Patek's refined craftsmanship, evolving over the years with variations in size, complications, and materials. Now, the Travel Time makes a return with the Ref. 5524G-010, replacing the blue dial variant that was discontinued a short while ago, with a fresh ivory lacquered face while retaining its functional spirit.

The new watch features a 42mm case crafted in white gold, maintaining a sleek profile with a thickness of 10.78mm. Its polished finish and robust pushers on the left side hint at its practical, aviation roots. A transparent caseback with protects the watch and offers water resistance up to 30 meters. The case features screwed pushers on the left to advance the hour hand in one-hour increments forwards and backwards, along with a pusher at 6:30 to adjust the date indicator.

The most striking update is the ivory lacquered dial, which displays large, applied Arabic numerals in blackened white gold, filled with yellow luminescent material for excellent readability in low-light conditions. The white gold hour and minute hands are also treated with luminescence and display local time. A skeletonized hand tracks the second time zone, while a date indicator is positioned on a subdial at 6 o’clock. Two round apertures at 9 and 3 o’clock indicate day/night for local and home time, respectively.

The watch is powered by the Caliber 324 S C FUS, an automatic movement operating at a frequency of 28,800 vph (4Hz), and delivering a power reserve of up to 45 hours. Completing the vintage pilot aesthetic is a khaki composite material with fabric pattern strap, secured with a white gold clevis-style buckle. The watch is priced at CHF 51,700, which is approximately AED 221,200.

For more information, you can visit Patek Philippe’s official website.

Technical Specifications: Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time 5524G-010

Reference: 5524G-010
Case: 18K white gold, polished, screwed pushers, transparent caseback
Diameter: 42mm
Thickness: 10.78mm
Water Resistance: 30 meters
Dial: Ivory lacquered, blackened white gold applied Arabic numerals with yellow luminescent coating, luminescent white gold hour and minute hands, skeletonized second time zone hand, day/night indicators for local and home time, date subdial at 6 o’clock
Movement: Caliber 324 S C FUS, automatic
Functions: Hours, Minutes, Seconds, Date, Dual Time Zone, Day/Night Indicators
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power Reserve: 45 hours
Bracelet/Strap: Khaki composite material strap with fabric pattern, white gold clevis-style buckle
Price: CHF 51,700, approximately AED 221,200