Introducing IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44 Collection

In the 1980s, IWC's renowned watchmaker Kurt Klaus pioneered a perpetual calendar comprising only about 80 individual parts, ingeniously avoiding the need for numerous, unsightly correctors by devising an elegant advancement mechanism from the crown.

Over the years, the perpetual calendar has become a cornerstone of IWC, featuring prominently in several collections crafted by the Schaffhausen-based brand. In 2003, this perpetual calendar made its debut in the Portugieser family, renowned for its 44mm case. Now, at Watches and Wonders 2024 in Geneva, the company unveils four new versions. Two models are crafted in 18-carat white gold, showcasing Horizon blue and Dune dials respectively, while the remaining two are presented in 18-carat Armor Gold, each featuring either an Obsidian or silver-plated dial. These models boast numerous improvements in dial design.

The Portugieser's famous case comes in white gold and armored gold, the special alloy of red gold from the company. The case boasts a large diameter of 44.4 mm and a height of 14.9 mm. It is characterized by clean lines, a polished finish, and a round shape. The design ethos of the Portugieser collection is rooted in simplicity and sophistication, making it a timeless classic. The glass is made of sapphire with double box-glass and anti-reflective coating on both sides, providing enhanced clarity. It is water-resistant up to 50 m. The case back is made of sapphire crystal, adding to the watch's overall elegance. 

The dial graphics underwent meticulous reworking and refinement, with a notable focus on the intricately crafted dials. An outstanding feature lies in their exceptional visual depth, achieved through the application of 15 layers of transparent lacquer. the indices are meticulously hand-applied onto the dials, involving up to 60 individual steps in the process.  All four watches feature IWC’s signature Double Moon display. It shows the moon as it can be seen from the Northern and Southern hemispheres.

The dial provides a wealth of information, with four subdials, snailing at the periphery and polished at the center. In this version of the calendar, the displays include the date with the power reserve indicator at 3 o’clock, the month at 6 o’clock, while the day of the week with the hacking small seconds  is at 9 o’clock. The perpetual moon phase display is integrated into the month display and deviates from the actual orbit of the moon by only one day after 577.5 years. The calendar year is displayed between 7 and 8 o'clock. The dial is available in four options.

A horizon blue dial, housed in a white gold case, features rhodium-plated hands and indices.  A dune-colored dial, housed in a white gold case, features gold-plated hands and appliques. 
An obsidian black dial boasts a case made of 18-carat Armor Gold®, featuring gold-plated hands and indices. A silver-plated dial features a case made of 18-carat Armor Gold®, with gold-plated hands and indices.

The watches are powered by the IWC-manufactured 52616 automatic caliber, which beats att 28,800 vph, and is assembled from 385 individual parts. The escapement has been improved to offer better protection against magnetic fields. The automatic Pellaton winding system features components made of wear-free zirconium oxide ceramic, while the oscillating mass is made of solid gold. It reliably builds up a power reserve of 7 days in two barrels.

For straps the horizon blue dial, paired with a gradient light-blue calfskin strap. The dune-colored and obsidian black dials, are matched with black alligator leather straps Additionally, a silver-plated dial, is accompanied by a brown alligator leather strap.

For more information please visit IWC official website.