The Excalibur Bi-Retrograde Calendar by Roger Dubuis

This year, Roger Dubuis celebrates its 30th anniversary, and for the occasion, the company pays tribute to its co-founder’s favourite complication: the bi-retrograde display.

This function, previously featured in the Excalibur Grande Complication alongside a dozen other highly complex mechanisms, takes centre stage once again. The Maison has also introduced a less complicated, more classic edition to further honour the bi-retrograde display.

Also referred to as “the ecliptic counters” by the Maison a nod to their elliptical shape and distinctive role in indicating the months and date the design showcases a symmetrical dial layout. Enhanced by refined detailing, it pays homage to the Maison’s early creations from 1996.

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News Is This the End of Carl F. Bucherer Watches at the Hands of Rolex?

The closure decision follows Rolex's acquisition of the Bucherer Group in 2023

ByWaqt

08.02.2025

2 minutes read

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The Swiss business platform Bilanz reported that Rolex is discontinuing the Carl F. Bucherer brand, which operates under the Hans Wilsdorf Foundation, the owner of Rolex, Tudor, and Bucherer. This decision follows Rolex's 2023 acquisition of the entire Bucherer Group, marking the end of a brand with a 137-year legacy.

The acquisition of Bucherer by Rolex generated a significant media buzz in the world of haute horlogerie, but the bigger stir came after Rolex announced its program for the Certified Pre-Owned Program. Watch enthusiasts began questioning how this would impact the availability of Rolex watches in official brand stores, a topic we have discussed in this article.

Founded in 1888 and family-owned until its sale in 2023, Carl F. Bucherer was one of Switzerland's oldest continuously independent luxury watchmakers. Despite its rich heritage, the brand faced financial challenges. According to industry sources cited by Bilanz, Carl F. Bucherer achieved annual sales between 80 and 100 million Swiss francs at its peak but operated at a consistent loss, with total losses estimated at around 250 million Swiss francs over its history.

Employees have been informed of the closure. The brand's presence in approximately 250 stores worldwide, including 50 operated by Bucherer or its U.S. subsidiary Tourneau, will gradually be phased out or replaced by other brands. This decision affects about 100 employees, with Rolex reportedly working to relocate many within the group. Approximately 70 production staff from the Lengnau facility near Biel may be offered positions at Rolex's new factory in Bulle.

As of now, neither Rolex nor Bucherer has issued an official statement on these developments. The industry continues to monitor how this situation will evolve.

2025