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New additions to the chronograph collection, and an innovative day/night complication indicator displayed on the tourbillon watch
The Portugieser stands out not only for its pure and timeless design but also as a testament to IWC Schaffhausen’s comprehensive expertise in fine watchmaking. Over the years, the Swiss luxury watch manufacturer has introduced numerous Portugieser watches with high complications, spanning from various versions of its perpetual calendar and tourbillons to the astronomical displays. With its unique engineering approach to fine watchmaking, IWC develops complications that are ingenious, highly robust, reliable, and technically elegant in design. At Watches and Wonders Geneva 2024, they unveiled a plethora of new timepieces, including new chronographs and a completely new design featuring a Hand-Wound Tourbillon watch with a Day & Night indicator.
This watch features a 42.4mm case made of 18-carat Armor Gold, an alloy from IWC that is tougher than regular red gold. With its durable build and anti-reflective coated sapphire glass, the case back is also made of crystal sapphire.
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The obsidian-black and highly polished dial exudes profound depth, creating a striking contrast, adorned with gold-plated hands and applied gold indices. The minutes railtrack is printed, while the flying minute tourbillon at 6 o’clock comprises 56 parts and weighs a mere 0.675 grams. Another standout feature is the innovative day and night display, portraying the perpetual cycle with a small sphere rotating around its axis. This globe-shaped indicator is visible from both the dial and movement sides. The unique day and night concept originated from former watchmaker trainee Loris Spitzer, exemplifying the success of IWC’s trainee program and the culture of curiosity and innovation within the company.
The hand-wound IWC-manufactured 81925 caliber, featuring gold-plated components, can be admired through the sapphire glass case back. Beating at 28,800 vph / 4 Hz, it features a pallet lever and escape wheel made of silicon, reducing friction and enhancing energy flow in the movement, contributing to its high power reserve of 84 hours. The newly developed day and night indication is seamlessly integrated into the movement. Since it is hand-wound and lacks an oscillating mass, the small globe is visible from both the front and back. The gold-plated base plate is partly skeletonized, offering an unobstructed view of the barrel and other components. The movement is meticulously finished with circular Geneva stripes.
The watch is fitted with a finely crafted curved black alligator leather strap from Santoni, a renowned Italian manufacturer of luxury shoes and leather accessories.
Technical specifications: IWC Portugieser Hand-Wound Tourbillon With a Globe-Shaped Day and Night Indication
IWC Schaffhausen also launches three new versions of the Portugieser Chronograph at Watches and Wonders Geneva. The new dial colours, Horizon blue, Obsidian, and Dune, this colors we already see it in the perpetual calendar new releases. Since its introduction in 1998, the Portugieser Chronograph has been synonymous with a blend of sporty flair and refined elegance within the collection.
The new timepiece is available in three case materials: a blue version with an 18-carat white gold case, an obsidian dial with an 18-carat 5N red gold case, and a third option featuring a dune-colored dial and a stainless steel case. Each variant comes in a 41mm size with a height of 13.1mm. The watch is equipped with a sapphire crystal glass with anti-reflective coating on both sides, ensuring clarity and durability. Additionally, the cases are water-resistant up to 30 in diameter.
Its iconic vertical sub-dial arrangement places the stopped minutes conveniently at 12 o’clock for easy readability, while the small seconds situate themselves at 6 o’clock. Adding to its distinctiveness is the inner flange printed with a quarter-second scale.
An exceptional aspect lies in the meticulously crafted dials. Brass bases undergo a sunburst finish before layers of transparent lacquer, up to 15 in total, are meticulously applied, finely ground, and polished to a lustrous sheen. The printing process further enhances the three-dimensional effect, with each appliqué meticulously mounted by hand.
Available in three captivating colors, the Horizon blue dial evokes a light blue hue reminiscent of early afternoon skies bathed in bright sunlight. Complemented by rhodium-plated hands and appliqués, the Obsidian black dial features gold-plated hands and appliqués, emitting a remarkable depth thanks to its lacquered finish, symbolizing the night sky adorned with gleaming stars. The Dune dial, paired with gold-plated hands and appliqués, reflects the evening ambiance as the sun sets and nightfall approaches, with the elaborate lacquer finish imparting an illusion of the appliqués floating above the dial.
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Driving the Portugieser Chronograph is the IWC-manufactured 69355 caliber, an automatic movement beating at 28,800 vph, designed with a focus on robustness, reliability, and longevity. The column-wheel control of the chronograph function ensures precise delineation of individual phases in the switching sequence, with distinct tactile resistance upon button actuation. Meticulous integration with the basic movement and meticulous component coordination ensure consistent performance, even during intense chronograph use, offering a power reserve of 46 hours.
The Portugieser Chronograph with a Horizon blue dial is paired with a gradient light-blue calfskin strap from Santoni, secured by a white gold pin buckle. The Obsidian dial variant showcases a black alligator leather strap from Santoni with a red gold pin buckle, while the Dune dial iteration is accompanied by a black alligator leather strap with a stainless steel deployment clasp.
For more information please visit IWC official website.
Technical specifications: IWC Portugieser Chronograph
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