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Anthracite Dial Inspired by the Iconic C187 Edition
The revival of the Daniel Roth brand in 2023 under the management of the French luxury group Louis Vuitton began with a subscription edition of 20 pieces in yellow gold, featuring a Clous de Paris–decorated dial. This was followed by regular-production versions in rose gold with a striped guilloché pattern. Today, coinciding with Dubai Watch Week, the brand unveils a new platinum tourbillon edition directly inspired by the original Tourbillon C187 created by Roth.
The signature double-ellipse case, originally designed by Daniel Roth when he founded the brand in 1988, remains a defining element of the collection. This new platinum execution retains the dimensions of the rose-gold model, measuring 38.6 × 35.5 mm with a thickness of 9.2 mm, an iconic profile cherished by the brand’s enthusiasts. The hand-soldered lugs have been subtly reshaped for improved comfort, while the crown, now adorned with the Daniel Roth emblem, has been redesigned to offer a smoother winding experience.
Unlike the Tourbillon Souscription, which featured a solid case back, the Tourbillon Platinum showcases its DR001 movement through a sapphire display back. The view reveals all the hallmarks of haute horlogerie: black-polished steel components, rounded anglage, perlage, and notably thin Côtes de Genève that echo the dial’s guillochage en ligne.
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The dial, crafted in white gold and treated in an anthracite tone, is finished with pinstripe hand-guilloché. Its sterling-silver hours-and-minutes chapter ring features black Roman numerals and fluted guilloché borders framing the triple seconds scale. This scale is flanked by Daniel Roth’s characteristic “moustaches,” created by the brand signature on one side and the individual watch number on the other. All dial components are produced in-house at the LFTLV guillochage workshop. In harmony with the Roman numerals, the steel hands for the hours, minutes, and triple seconds are finished in black.
The tourbillon regulator completes one rotation per minute, doubling as the running seconds display. Its cage carries a three-armed seconds hand, each arm of different length to indicate separate segments of the seconds track.
Powering the watch is the manually wound DR001 caliber, the same movement used in the original yellow-gold souscription edition. Operating at 3 Hz, it delivers an 80-hour power reserve. Crafted entirely at La Fabrique du Temps, the movement receives meticulous hand-finishing to meet the highest standards. While the souscription model concealed the movement behind a solid gold case back, both the rose-gold and platinum editions feature sapphire display backs that reveal the caliber in full detail.
The Daniel Roth Tourbillon Platinum is offered on a beige calfskin strap secured by a platinum pin buckle. It enters the brand’s regular collection and is priced at CHF 185,000, approximately AED 842,000.
For more information, visit the official website of Daniel Roth.
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