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The French Maison Expands Its Presence in Haute Horlogerie
Chanel is taking another strategic step in the world of haute horlogerie, as the French maison has confirmed its acquisition of a stake in Kross Studio, the Swiss atelier renowned for its bold innovations, highly complex timepieces, and mechanical objets d’art. According to the French publication Paris Select Book, this move aims to unite the creative vision, technical expertise, and industrial ambitions of both brands.
This development reflects a strategy that has become increasingly clear within Chanel’s watchmaking division. Rather than pursuing full acquisitions, the maison prefers carefully considered partnerships designed to secure rare expertise and advanced production capabilities. Within this model, independent manufactures maintain their creative identity while benefiting from greater long-term stability, alongside essential financial support. The outcome is a framework that fosters ambitious projects, raising expectations for both quality and execution.
Founded in 2020, Kross Studio quickly established a presence among followers of independent watchmaking, particularly for its central flying tourbillon movement. The brand has also distinguished itself through inventive collaborations that blur the traditional boundaries between haute horlogerie and contemporary culture.
Chanel’s acquisition of a stake in Kross Studio represents a continuation of the group’s long-standing strategy. Similar to other major groups—such as LVMH, which expands its portfolio through selective acquisitions—Chanel chooses to support companies with strong manufacturing capabilities and exceptional design ideas, focusing on unique complications and highly limited productions. At the same time, this partnership strengthens a growing network of specialist manufacturers capable of delivering exceptional small-scale series, while encouraging the transfer of expertise among the companies within the group. The logic behind this move strikes a careful balance between artistic vision and industrial strategy.
This strategy is not without precedent. Two years ago, MB&F announced a major partnership with Chanel, under which the French maison acquired a 25% stake in the independent haute horlogerie brand.
Active in watchmaking since 1987, Chanel has systematically invested in independent luxury watchmakers for many years. These investments include a 20% stake in F.P. Journe in 2018, earlier investments in Bell & Ross in 1998 and Romain Gauthier in 2011, and the acquisition of a stake in high-end movement manufacturer Kenissi in 2019.
Chanel has repeatedly emphasized that these investments stem from a desire to preserve and develop exceptional expertise, while supporting independent watchmakers who share the maison’s values of creativity and excellence. The partnership with Kross Studio aligns perfectly with this long-term vision.
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