The Excalibur Bi-Retrograde Calendar by Roger Dubuis

This year, Roger Dubuis celebrates its 30th anniversary, and for the occasion, the company pays tribute to its co-founder’s favourite complication: the bi-retrograde display.

This function, previously featured in the Excalibur Grande Complication alongside a dozen other highly complex mechanisms, takes centre stage once again. The Maison has also introduced a less complicated, more classic edition to further honour the bi-retrograde display.

Also referred to as “the ecliptic counters” by the Maison a nod to their elliptical shape and distinctive role in indicating the months and date the design showcases a symmetrical dial layout. Enhanced by refined detailing, it pays homage to the Maison’s early creations from 1996.

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Introducing Bucherer Releases Three Exclusive limited editions

In collaboration with Girard-Perregaux, Ulysse Nardin & Chopard

ByWaqt

11.02.2025

5 minutes read

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After the rumor that recently spread on the Swiss business platform "Bilanz" reporting that Rolex is discontinuing Carl F. Bucherer, which operates under the Hans Wilsdorf Foundation, the owner of Rolex, Tudor, and Bucherer. This decision follows Rolex's 2023 acquisition of the entire Bucherer Group, fueling speculation that it marks the end of a brand with a 137-year legacy, you can know more here.

However, all this goes aside with Bucherer’s latest release: a collaboration with Girard-Perregaux, Chopard, and Ulysse Nardin to produce exclusive timepieces with striking aesthetics.

Girard-Perregaux Laureato Tourbillon Bucherer Exclusive

Girard-Perregaux brings its signature Laureato design to Bucherer’s lineup with a titanium tourbillon edition. Measuring 43mm in diameter and 11.36mm thick, the case features the collection’s distinctive octagonal bezel and a grey dial adorned with a Clous de Paris pattern.

Powering this timepiece is the automatic GP09510 caliber, which operates at 21,600 vph (3Hz) and offers a 47 hour power reserve. The movement is equipped with a micro-rotor and a tourbillon positioned at 6 o’clock. Paired with an integrated titanium bracelet, it is limited to just eight pieces and priced at CHF 112,000, approximately AED 451,200.

Technical specifications: Girard-Perregaux Laureato Tourbillon Bucherer Exclusive

Case: titanium
Diameter: 43mm
Thickness: 11.36mm
Dial: grey, Clous de Paris pattern, tourbillon at 6 o’clock
Movement: GP09510, Automatic, micro-rotor
Frequency: 21,600 vph (3Hz)
Power reserve: 47 hours
Availability: Limited to 8 pieces
Price: EUR 123,000 / AED 451,200

Ulysse Nardin Freak X Enamel Bucherer Exclusive

Ulysse Nardin unveils the Freak X Enamel Bucherer Exclusive, titanium timepiece that measures 43mm in diameter and 13.78mm in thickness. It features a green guilloché mainplate that doubles as the hour disc, adorned with an intricate enamel coating, similar to what we saw in the Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons edition. With no traditional hands or dial, the movement itself indicates time, utilizing a flying carousel mechanism that rotates around the central axis.

Powered by the automatic UN-230 caliber, this watch operates at 21,600 vph and offers a 72 hour power reserve. It also incorporates a silicon escapement, ensuring high precision and low friction. The Freak X Enamel is paired with a black calfskin or rubber strap with green stitching. Limited to 18 pieces, it is priced at CHF 38,500, approximately AED 155,000.

Technical specifications: Ulysse Nardin Freak X Enamel Bucherer Exclusive

Case: titanium
Diameter: 43mm
Thickness: 13.78mm
Dial: Green guilloché mainplate, enamel
Movement: UN-230, Automatic, flying carousel, silicon escapement
Frequency: 21,600 vph (3Hz)
Power reserve: 72 hours
Availability: Limited to 18 pieces
Price: CHF 38,500 / AED 155,000

Chopard L.U.C Strike One Bucherer Exclusive

Last but certainly not least, Chopard showcases its mastery of chiming watches with the L.U.C Strike One Bucherer Exclusive. This 40mm timepiece measures 9.86mm thick and is crafted from Lucent Steel, a proprietary alloy made using high-quality industrial scraps from Swiss watchmakers, along with high-grade steel sourced from the medical, aerospace, and automotive industries.

The dial is crafted from ethical 18K white gold and finished in a light blue PVD color with guilloché honeycomb motif, and has a baguette-cut diamond marking the 8 o’clock position. A visible hammer, positioned at 12:30, It chimes once an hour and the owner can switch to silent mode using a pusher on the crown.

At its heart is the automatic L.U.C 96.32-L caliber, featuring a micro-rotor and a twin-barrel system that delivers a 65-hour power reserve while operating at 28,800 vph (4Hz). The watch is paired with a grey alligator leather strap and includes an additional grey calfskin strap. Limited to just eight pieces, it is priced at CHF 65,000, approximately AED 262,000.