Introducing Launch of the Artisans Chronometer by Simon Brett Exciting, creative and glamorous watchmaking at its best

Simon Brette is not a well-known name in the watch industry, but he has played a significant role in creating unique and notable timepieces for independent watchmakers like Chronode and MB&F. However, after some personal changes and possibly due to the pandemic, he decided to start his own venture. He has designed a highly ornate and modern watch that blends traditional and contemporary elements and is also impressive when worn as a wristwatch.

Simon Brette is a French engineer and the son of a carpenter who has worked in various renowned watch companies throughout his career. He joined Chronode in 2011 as a technical designer, where he worked on some of the most advanced movements in modern watchmaking. Later, he became a Project Manager at MCT and then joined MB&F, where he managed movement concepts from research and development to production. In 2021, he decided to launch his own watch brand. The Simon Brette watch brand is not just the work of one person. It is a collaborative effort of many talented individuals, and Simon made sure to credit all the parties involved in the launch of his first watch.

Simon Brette's new project has yielded the Artisans Chronometer, with the first series limited to 12 pieces, which has already sold out. This watch is only the beginning of what is to come, as another version will be launched later this year.The watch's focus is on time measurement, boasting an ultra-ornate movement and sophisticated technical solutions. This approach has been used in the past by renowned watchmakers such as Rexhep Rexhepi from Akrivia and Kari Voutilainen. What sets this watch apart is its expressive design and unique movement structure, blending classic and contemporary elements with traditional techniques. It takes inspiration from iconic names in watchmaking history, including Derek Pratt, George Daniels, Urban Jurgensen, and Girard-Perregaux with their Three Golden Bridges timepiece. However, the watch has its own distinct personality and modern features. This watch firmly places Simon Brette's brand in the indie watchmaking realm, with a design process focused on the movement and working from the inside out.

Let's begin by discussing the movement, which boasts a classic construction with proven solutions such as two parallel barrels, a 3/4 plate, and a large balance wheel that beats at a slow frequency. It's a traditional chronometer design.

The SBCA calibre, which is unique to Simon Brette watches and measures 33.30mm in diameter, features a large balance wheel with adjustable inertia blocks and a free-sprung architecture. It is paired with a Breguet overcoil hairspring and held in place by a single straight rounded bridge made of non-magnetic grade 5 titanium. The balance wheel beats at a rate of 2.5Hz (or 18,000 vibrations/hour), similar to marine chronometers that have a large diameter/high inertia balance wheel coupled to a low beat rate. Phynox, a non-magnetic steel alloy, is used to craft all the steel parts adjacent to the balance wheel. The watch also includes a stop-second mechanism with a single flexible S-shaped arm, allowing for precise time setting.

The movement's decoration is remarkable, combining traditional techniques with unique details to create a classic yet contemporary look. The three-quarter bridge features a grained texture and is finished in an anthracite ruthenium tone, with hand-applied anglage, internal angles, and mirror-polished edges. All titanium and steel parts are meticulously hand-mirror polished, including the gear spokes and inner rims, chatons, and even the pinions. However, what truly sets the decoration apart are the concave surfaces of the screws and barrels. The screw heads are bowl-shaped and then mirror-polished, giving the appearance of small domes from a distance. The movement's screws are mounted in solid gold chatons, which provide a visual contrast and highlight the movement's three-dimensional design. The decoration of the movement is true haute horlogerie artistry and is truly captivating.

Moving on to the watch's physical characteristics, the case of the Simon Brette Chronomètre Artisans Subscription Edition is noteworthy as it will be crafted from zirconium (although the prototype pictured here is made of grade 5 titanium). Zirconium is known for its lightweight, durability, and high resistance to corrosion. The case features a combination of brushed and polished finishes, with the polished bands sporting a concave shape that matches the movement's screws. The case is made up of multiple parts, with the lug modules attached to the inner case from the inside and the bezel and caseback screwed to the mid-case in a seamless manner.

The watch has a beautiful  design that blends modernity and elegance with its compact size of 39mm diameter, 10.5mm thickness, and 45mm length. It fits comfortably on the wrist and is light yet distinctive for a time-only watch. The crown is bowl-shaped to match the concave surfaces of the screw heads, and the side of the case features a polished gold element in the shape of a dovetail, paying homage to the creator's father who was a carpenter. The tapered lugs have two sets of holes to fit either curved or straight spring bars, and the watch comes with two straps, a folding clasp, and a tang buckle.
 

 The dial of the Simon Brette Chronomètre Artisans watch combines traditional and modern elements. To avoid cluttering the dial, two frosted sapphire plates are used to indicate the minutes and seconds, creating contrast. The dial is surrounded by a silvery inner flange with an opaline finish. The base of the dial is more eye-catching, featuring a hand-engraved chiselled dragon scales pattern on a solid 5N red gold plate. This deeply textured surface creates a mesmerizing 3D mosaic effect that shimmers depending on the lighting. However, this unique design is only reserved for the 12 watches in the Subscription Edition and is executed by external artisans.
 The hands of the Simon Brette Chronomètre Artisans watch are equally impressive. The hour hand is inspired by Derek Pratt's "observatory" hand from Urban Jurgensen but with a pointed tip featuring an interior angle. It is meticulously polished by hand and flame-blued, revealing a two-tone nature with a mirror-polished upper surface. Two slender blued steel hands indicate the minutes and seconds, and the central axle of the hands is finished with the same level of detail as the rest of the watch.
 

The Simon Brette Chronomètre Artisans watch is being released as a 12-piece Subscription Edition series, which is already fully allocated. Priced at CHF 50,000 before taxes, it may seem like a significant investment, but it is consistent with the competition. The production edition, which will feature traditional case metals and different dial textures, will be launched later in the year.

If you want to know more, please visit simonbrette.com and check the brand's Instagram account.