Auction Phillips Unveils Ernst Schuster’s Remarkable Collection in “Decade One” Auction

This November, Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo will celebrate a decade of watch auctions with the “Decade One (2015–2025)” thematic sale at the Hôtel Président in Geneva. This landmark event marks the successful first ten years of the Phillips Watches department, reflecting on the remarkable timepieces, record-breaking results, and pioneering scholarship that have defined Phillips Watches since its inaugural auction in 2015.

Ernst Schuster, born in Würzburg, Germany, in 1946, left his family’s farm at 19 to build a new life in Munich, where he became a gentleman racer, taking his Ferraris and Porsches to Goodwood, Le Mans, and the Targa Florio. His passion for aesthetics extended to art collecting, where he formed friendships with icons such as Keith Haring, who once sketched on the caseback of Schuster’s Patek Philippe Ref. 1518 in stainless steel.

Schuster began collecting watches in the 1960s, drawn to Patek Philippe, Rolex, and later Cartier. He bought instinctively during the Quartz Revolution, when few cared about mechanical watches, driven by an appreciation for beauty and craftsmanship rather than speculation.

Many of his watches were purchased directly from Patek Philippe and have remained in his possession ever since — rarely worn and preserved in exceptional condition. Decades later, he has chosen to share highlights from this extraordinary collection through the Phillips Decade One (2015–2025) sale in Geneva, with additional pieces offered in The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XXI.

Lot Highlights

Lot 105 – Patek Philippe | Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 2499/100 with Gübelin-Signed Dial, 1983

Estimate: CHF 400,000 – 800,000

Produced from 1951 to 1985 in only 349 examples, the Ref. 2499 is a cornerstone of Patek Philippe collecting. This final-series 2499/100, cased by Atelier Reunis, stands out for its superb preservation and rare Gübelin signature, one of only six known. 

Fresh to market and retained by Schuster since acquisition, the watch remains flawless, its case untouched and satin finish intact. It embodies the architectural elegance that defines the 2499 as one of the greatest wristwatches ever made.

Lot 106 – Patek Philippe | Split-Seconds Chronograph Ref. 1436 with Tiffany & Co.-Signed Dial, 1956

Estimate: CHF 150,000 – 300,000

The Ref. 1436 adds a split-seconds function to Patek Philippe’s classic chronograph design, merging elegance with technical sophistication. Fewer than 140 examples were produced between 1938 and the 1970s, with later pieces like this one featuring the sportier co-axial crown pusher. 

Even rarer, its dial bears the Tiffany & Co. signature — with fewer than ten such 1436s known. This example has been unseen since 1988 and retains both its Tiffany stock number and “HOX” import mark.

Lot 15 – Patek Philippe | Chronograph Ref. 1579 ‘Anse à Ragno,’ 1952

Estimate: CHF 30,000 – 60,000

Distinguished by its faceted “spider lugs,” the Ref. 1579 remains one of Patek Philippe’s most distinctive chronographs. Produced from 1943 to 1964 with a 36 mm Wenger case, it combines bold geometry with refined elegance. Powered by the hand-finished calibre 13''', it bridges mid-century design and modern sensibilities, making it one of the most wearable and enduring chronographs of its era.

Lot 18 – Patek Philippe | ‘Gilbert Albert’ Ref. 3424/1 in Platinum, 1961

Estimate: CHF 100,000 – 200,000

Gilbert Albert brought avant-garde design to Patek Philippe in the 1950s and 1960s, blending horology and sculpture. This platinum Ref. 3424/1, part of his Asymétrie series, is one of only four known gem-set examples. Fresh to market and preserved in remarkable condition, it has remained in Schuster’s collection since its original purchase. Its radical geometry, executed by casemaker Markowski, represents the boldest expression of Albert’s vision and the artistic freedom that defined this creative era in Patek Philippe’s history.

Lot 14 – Patek Philippe | Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 3971 in 18k Yellow Gold, 1990

Estimate: CHF 100,000 – 200,000

A beautifully preserved second-series example, this Ref. 3971 retains deep hallmarks, sharp lugs, and a pristine dial. Fresh to market and complete with its original accessories, it was originally sold through Garrard & Co. in London. 

As the successor to the Ref. 2499, the 3971 continued Patek Philippe’s lineage of perpetual calendar chronographs, introducing a Lemania-based calibre and modern 36 mm proportions that defined the brand’s late 20th-century design language.

Lot 102 – Patek Philippe | World Time Pocket Watch in 18k Yellow Gold, 1946

Estimate: CHF 25,000 – 50,000

Powered by a Louis Cottier-modified calibre 17-170, the Ref. 605 is among the rarest World Time pocket watches ever made, with fewer than 100 examples produced. 

This piece remains exceptionally crisp, its rotating city ring functioning perfectly and its surfaces showing their original finish. Bearing Patek Philippe’s early “short signature,” it represents a transitional moment in the brand’s evolution and stands as a superbly preserved example of Cottier’s world-time innovation.

This sale represents the tenth and final chapter of Phillips’ first decade of watch auctions. Many of these stunning pieces have been previously featured in our coverage and in our interview with Alexandre Ghotbi, Deputy Chairman and Head of Watches, Europe & Middle East at Phillips.

The Phillips Decade One (2015–2025) watch auction will take place on 8–9 November 2025 at the Hôtel Président in Geneva, offering collectors an unprecedented opportunity to discover and acquire timepieces that define not only Phillips’ first decade but also the broader history of modern watchmaking.

For more information visit Phillips official website.