The Excalibur Bi-Retrograde Calendar by Roger Dubuis

This year, Roger Dubuis celebrates its 30th anniversary, and for the occasion, the company pays tribute to its co-founder’s favourite complication: the bi-retrograde display.

This function, previously featured in the Excalibur Grande Complication alongside a dozen other highly complex mechanisms, takes centre stage once again. The Maison has also introduced a less complicated, more classic edition to further honour the bi-retrograde display.

Also referred to as “the ecliptic counters” by the Maison a nod to their elliptical shape and distinctive role in indicating the months and date the design showcases a symmetrical dial layout. Enhanced by refined detailing, it pays homage to the Maison’s early creations from 1996.

Glossary

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Glossary
Enamel

Enamel

Is a type of artistic finishing that involves applying a glassy coating made from powdered glass mixed with special liquids.

In watchmaking, metal surfaces of the watch are coated with enamel, which is then exposed to high temperatures to ensure the stability of the coating on the coated surface. Enamel coating is used in coating watch dials, hour markers, hands, and other components.

Enamel is used to create dial designs that are resistant to fading and can maintain their vibrant colors for centuries. Enamel dials are often found in high-end and luxury watches because creating them involves a time-consuming and delicate process that requires a high degree of skill.

However, they are also delicate and can crack or chip if not handled carefully.

There are several types of enamel used in watchmaking, including cloisonné, champlevé, flinqué, and grand feu, each with their own unique characteristics and methods of application.